Perhaps the most mineral-driven of Rossignol's Volnay wines. As with all of his wines, this isn't backwards in coming forwards but the fruit is more red than black and it has an unexpected freshness. The tannins are perfectly integrated and it all wraps up to deliver a very elegant and pleasing glass of wine.
Full and slightly brutal, but certainly very solid. Not the lift of the Chevret. Feet are rather dragged here. Though there is density.
, Dec 2009, 90
The Rossignol 2006 Volnay Caillerets is adamantly chalky and firmly tannic, making for a rather severe expression of this site that has proven to be typical for the vintage. Blackberry, mulberry, licorice, and cyanic notes of cherry pit combine for a dark, bittersweet fruit character to compliment the wine's formidable minerality. This is certainly impressive Volnay that should be more than capable of healthy evolution for at least 6-8 years, but perhaps it's a question of whether one's mental health can take it. Nor do I see it ever remotely approaching the stature of the amazing 2005.
"Excellent ripeness came late, but then very quickly," reports Nicolas Rossignol, who began harvested his 2006s already in mid September. "Volnay tends to be precocious, anyway," he adds, "and you have to consider the intensive way in which I've been working the vines lately, with very low yields and intensive canopy management. I wanted to preserve freshness and equilibrium." Rossignol reported that his intention had been to bottle his 2006s correspondingly early to preserve their fruit and refinement, but the mid-winter of 2007-2008 was so bitterly cold that they seized-up, and in the end he permitted them what, for him, is a normal 18 months' elevage. Deeming his fruit - which largely weighed in between 12 and just over 13% potential alcohol - to be healthy, he employed whole clusters and stems selectively, depending on how he thought the technique fit the particular appellation. Once again, I was unable to taste more than half of the roughly two dozen Rossignol's wines - traversing five communes - and he declined to show me this year's Fremiets or Taillepieds on the grounds of their respective three- and two-barrel total production. (That said, Rossignol very generously introduced me by means of a sample to the wines of his neighbor Jean-Marc Boulet - see under that name for my notes.) For further details on Rossignol and his approach to Pinot, see my report in issue 171.
, Jan 2009, 92
A powerful, almost opulent red, with sweet black cherry, licorice and spice aromas and flavors. Beautifully balanced and harmonious, with firm, well-integrated tannins. Best from 2011 through 2022. 150 cases made.
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||Red Wine 紅酒
||Côte de Beaune
||Volnay 1er Cru
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